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PowerPro braid reel capacity

Posted by maltatackle on 29 December, 2011 at 9:30

Canyon DJR6500, PowerPro 100lb line capacity is about 200 meters.

Omoto Severo 3000, PowerPro 50lb line capacity is about 180 meters.

Omoto Severo 5000, PowerPro 100lb line capacity is about 300 meters.

Omoto VS12, PowerPro 50lb line capacity is about 450 meters.

Omoto Ulises Zorro 200Z, PowerPro 50lb line capacity is about 450 meters.

Omoto Poseidon S16, PowerPro 50lb line capacity is about 450 meters.

Omoto Poseidon S22, PowerPro 50lb line capacity is about 700 meters.

Omoto Poseidon S30, PowerPro 50lb line capacity is about 1400 meters.

Omoto Poseidon S30, PowerPro 100lb line capacity is about 800 meters.

Assist hooks used for vertical jigging

Posted by maltatackle on 28 December, 2011 at 15:40

One of the most significant jig developments has been the assist hook. The assist hook comprises a wide gape hook spliced to a short, looped Kevlar cord. The cord is usually looped onto the connecting end of the jig so that the hook is positioned behind the head and belly area of the jig. This is an area jiggers believe predatory fish strike which leads to improved hook sets. Another benefit is less snags because of the absence of the traditional tail treble. Many Japanese jiggers believe that predators also attack the assist hook so they often dress the hook like a flasher or fly.

Choose an assist hook by ensuring the hook gape is wider than the jig. Jiggers often use two assist hooks, varying the cord lengths for greater coverage. The first assit hook is set at one third of the jig and the second assist hook is set at two thirds of the jig. Additional assist hooks can be looped in at the tail if you are getting missed strikes when the jig is dropping. The tail assist will fold up against the jig and into the strike zone but a problem is the potential of the jig to tangle with the leader if jigged too vigorously.

There are many ways to make assist hooks, the main ingredient is Kevlar cord. Cut a 30cm length of Kevlar, double the cord then carefully tie a 2 turn uni knot or nail knot onto the hook shank then tighten with pliers. Trim off Kevlar tags and finish off with a short length of heat shrink tubing to protect the knot. Another simpler way is a single overhand knot onto the hook shank, a drop of super glue then heat shrink tubing.

Jig types

Posted by maltatackle on 28 December, 2011 at 15:30

There are many different jig manufacturers on the market but they all produce jigs where the weight positioning is centre weighted, tail weighted or somewhere in between.

Centre weighted jigs –

These jigs are weight balanced near its centre. This jig is designed to flutter, glide and dart during the drop but fall slower than tail weighted designs. Use this jig in shallower water and for bottom fish (Snapper) that prefer a slower, fluttery presentation. These jigs are the most common and versatile designs and are must have weapons in the jiggers arsenal.

Tail weighted jigs –

These jigs are weight balanced at or near the tail. This jig is designed to drop and lift quickly with a little action. These are the jigs to target deep water bottom fish as their streamlined designs will resist the effects of current better.

The jigs also tend to have small face profiles for better streamlining thus reducing the jig load felt at the rod. Because they are used in deep water, most jigs tend to have luminous finishes which help illuminate this lethal offering to any prospective fish.

Use these jigs to target deep water Kingfish, Hapuka and Sea Bass.

Jig size –

When choosing the jig size - target fish, water depth and current flow should be considered. Heavy tail weighted jigs can be used with pin point accuracy on a small target. A common guide is for 100g for every 100’ of water.

Choosing between a short or long jig might be helped by comparing jig length to the local baitfish at the time. It is also a long-held belief by Japanese jiggers that a long jig resembles a big baitfish which will entice the bigger predators! This choice then becomes a personal one or one that is determined on the day as fish will always have their daily preferences.

Jig colour –

With a wide range of jig colours, patterns and finishes; it can be hard to choose a suitable colour. There is a long held belief that the jig colour should match the overhead light conditions i.e. dark overhead = dark coloured jig, bright sunny = bright coloured jigs. At night and during deep jigging sessions, jigs that are mostly luminous are popular because of their ability to be seen in the dark water. Often before the first drop, I will observe what colour jigs have been selected by other jiggers and then choose a different colour. This way most of the colour spectrum is covered and if there is a hot colour, then you can quickly change to that. In most cases, the prettiest jig is the one that gets tied on and we all know that you will only get bit if you have it in the water.



Game Rods

Posted by maltatackle on 28 December, 2011 at 15:20

A game rod needs to have enough power to set hooks, enough to gain line against pressure and enough length to help an angler keep tight on a lunging, head-shaking beast. The easiest way to test a rod's effectiveness is to stick a reel on it, thread it up and lift half its rating off the floor. If you are checking 10 kg rod, lift 5kg off the floor. If the rod bends to the reel grip it is too light. I prefer rods that bend only in their upper half. Maintaining tight line and full drag is very difficult with a rod whose tip folds away under little pressure, leaving only 2 to 3 feet of rod that can be used to pump loaded line. The longer and stiffer the rod, the easier it is to keep the line tight, the more line you gain per pump, and when the fish gets close the less likely you are to get cut off under the boat or around the propellers.

The lighter the line class, the longer the rod. For very light line under 8lb some anglers prefer a parabolic action so that the rod is a better shock absorber.

For record purposes, the IGFA equipment regulations demand that the rod tip must be a minimum of 101.6cm (40 in) long and the butt a maximum of 68.58cm (27 in) long. Curved butts, developed for use in the fighting chair are measured as a straight line. A growing number of anglers who do not wish to be constricted by the fighting chair, have rods designed specifically for them. These are considerably shorter than the traditional trolling big game rods. Stand-up rods measure between 1.5 to 1.8 meters and have a shorter butt-end than usual, as well as a fast taper to give lots of action.

A rod needs good guides, most production rods make use of Hardloy (a high-grade aluminium oxide) as the material is hard and durable. The guide material advances incorporate features that reduce the risk of impact breakage or chips, and significantly harder and smoother materials to reduce the risk of wear and heat build up on pressure points. Silicone Carbide are better guides and Gold Cermet guides are the best guides but more expensive. For big game rods good quality roller runners are better than guides. The best roller runners are anodized aluminium with waterproof stainless steel ball bearings.

Table of the line diameters (in mm) to PE numbers

Posted by maltatackle on 28 December, 2011 at 15:05